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Now lets say we want to use a gallon container. How to calculate Dilution Ratios For gallon containers. 10+1=11 Then 32oz divided by 11 = 2.9oz of chemical. How about a 10:1 dilution ratio for a 32oz bottle? It’s the same exact way. So put 4 ounces of chemical into the bottle and fill the rest with water for a 7:1 dilution. Again, change the dilution ratio numbers to addition like this: 7+1=8. Now lets do a 7:1 dilution for a 32oz bottle. 6.4 x 4 = 25.6, now we need to add back the one, which is the 6.4 and we get 25.6 + 6.4 = 32. So, this means that we would need to put in 6.4oz of chemical and then fill the rest with water to make a 4:1 dilution ratio in a 32oz bottle. Then, take the total ounces, which in this case is 32, and divide that by 5. So, for example: a dilution ratio of 4:1 would be 4+1=5. The way I do this is I simply add the ratio numbers together. So lets figure out what parts need to be chemical and water. We know that 32oz is the total ounces that we can put into that bottle. Lets say we want to make a 32oz bottle with a 4:1 dilution (4 parts water and 1 part chemical). How to calculate dilution ratios For 32 oz bottles? To start with you need to decide what dilution ratio you are needing and what you are going to be putting it into, like a 32oz bottle, 128oz gallon jug, or any other containers that you know the ounces of. Hopefully this helps, at least a little, for those who struggle with it or helps someone looking for an easier way than what they are using. With having to mix chemicals all the time, it was a pain. This is something that I used to struggle with constantly. The pointy end of the stock is simply inserted into the grip cavity behind the magwell, and a spring-loaded stud snaps into the lanyard hole. One of the touted advantages of the GLR-17 is the ease of attachment. We still thought it worthy of this guide not only for historical purposes, but also because several companies are now producing 1:1 clones at nearly 20 percent of the original price. In fact, this one is old enough that it’s been long discontinued. While there are some C96 Mausers and a handful of Browning Hi-Powers and Lugers with stocks, this TDI conversion is the first modern pistol stock we recall ever seeing. Length Added: 9 inches (closed), 13 inches (open) These should all be weighed in the balance if you’re looking at picking up some sort of Glock stock. Considerations as to whether they’re compatible with silencers, magwells, and magazine extensions are all into play as well as ambidextrous use and ease of reaching common controls. That said, the criteria, which we use to evaluate each one, can be applied to all on the market. We simply obtained samples of some of the most popular and interesting and broke them down for you. Of course, the conversions featured in this buyer’s guide are far from a complete list. Keeping all of this in mind, we made the decision to use a pair of registered SBR Glocks (one Gen3 and one Gen4) for use with this article, regardless if a stock or brace is used as to avoid any of the potential pitfalls. But that doesn’t mean it’ll go that way the next time. Ultimately after a very short wait, the jury thankfully came back with a not guilty verdict. Wright, 3:18-CR-162 the government sought to preclude the determination letters about braces and angled grips written by the BATFE FATD (Firearms and Ammunition Technology Division). However, that letter itself may not even help, in 2018’s U.S. Some companies have even gone so far as to not even submit for a BATFE determination as to the legality of their braces, instead relying on the letters of others (Flux Defense is among them). While at the time of writing there are no pending cases based on this that we know of, it’s definitely something to keep in mind. Several independent sources have informed us the BATFE internally decided that pistols weighing below 36 ounces unloaded rocking braces can be prosecuted as illegal SBRs the idea being that anything below that weight can successfully be fired without extra support. Also, a determination letter received from the BATFE to a manufacturer probably won’t stop you from being arrested by an overzealous police officer, but it may help you not be convicted (after a lot of time and money is spent). If you’re one of those who happen to have a brace on a pistol, this is something that you should definitely keep in mind. The (current) legal acceptance of the ability to add a brace to a pistol and shoulder it has brought many new items to the market, and that’s likely to continue until someone in the BATFE decides to get drunk and write another determination letter. The addition of a stock for a third point of contact allows one to shoot a pistol much more accurately and at greater distances. Originally, these items were developed for nations where it was easier for citizens to obtain pistols instead of rifles (here’s looking at you, Israel). There are some things that don’t quite make sense to the American market, and putting rifle stocks on pistols has certainly been one of them - at least until relatively recently. Mind boggling.Bonjour j'ai une grosse config ASUS avec une RTX 3090 sur une alim corsaire AX 1200 et c'est la le souci, car si les diodes rouges continues signifie bien un manque ou souci d'alim les diodes rouges clignotantes sont en fait la représentation de la fonction "power detect " de GPU tweak 2 elle ne clignote pas avec une alim récente et suffisamment puissante mais clignote de temps Ã* autre avec ma vielle alim de 7 ans pourtant plus largement que puissante avec 100A dispo pour les pci mais elle ne plait pas Ã* la fonction power detect alors que la carte et ma config fonctionnent parfaitement, résultat soit je change d'alim soit je désactive power detect car les diodes rouges permanentes en cas de problème reste active, le but est clairement de nous faire acheter une alim strix suffit de communiquer avec les composant par le biais de l'alim soit par impulsion soit en jouant sur le niveau de régulation des tension ou même sur la sinusoïde de la tension, enfin j'hésite encore, en tout cas d'autre marque ont adopté cette politique comme par Hazard elle proposent toutes des alimentations. Gigabyte, MSI, EVGA, next round I'm with you again.īeing able to build high quality GPU's and at the same time releasing primary school level software apps. 'Normal' cards perform just as well probably and at least have working fans. Except hours upon hours of fruitless fault finding, lost time. Got nothing in return for the Asus price premium. I paid 2000,- for this GPU and man do I wish I hadn't. A lot of shiny aluminium, but paste was a mess and software can't steer the fans. Cooling actually doesn't really seem to be your thing frankly. On a sidenote, my 3090 initially consistently went up in the 90C's, only after manually re-pasting did the temps drop by >10C's. I mean, come ON, how can you miss this ?! Wasn't cooling the big thing on Rog Strix cards ?!? (If the monitor window is not there then click on the 'monitor button' at the bottom left of the GPU Tweak window 2 times til you see it) Next 1- click on 'OFF' just below the Setting 'COG' That will disable the OSD. In GPU Tweak III beta fans are also not working. Click on the 'cog' (settings icon) on the monitor window on the left. Reverting back to former version, middle fan curve gone as well. The latest GPU Tweak build actually touts in the changelog improvements to the fan functionality, but now the middle fan doesn't have a graph for a manual curve anymore. Since day 1 I had to manually start GPUFanService, besides GPU Tweak, to get the external fans going at all. It almost demands respect how glaring omissions like this pass through your test process (if there is any). I would love to just leave this piece of instability behind me and go the MSI Afterburner route, but alas I'm forced to use it to get the external GPU fans on my 3090 Rog Strix going.īut the only thing that still doesn't work correctly for 3 months now is the freaking FAN funtion !!! If I put that time into money then the card has now cost way over 2000,- and still the fans don't work as they should. Not so much the couple of frames I miss due to wonky fan settings, more so all the lost time of trial and erroring. Card cost a lot and when I first got it (finally, after months waiting) I was ok, let's wait for some software updates, but now after several new versions of GPU Tweak II the new GPU Tweak III is marketed as the greatest thing ever and even in that the fans do not work properly.Īt a certain point it just gets annoying. My post is very moody, and I know there are bigger problems in the world, but I just really had it. By not reading it first, you decided that the time the moderators and members spent contributing to the wiki was beneath you. Any posts that are confusing, low quality, or lazy such as only saying Title in the body text, will be discarded.ĭon't post questions already answered.Quit spamming the same issues, contentious politics, & misinformation.Harassment of others, as well as insulting remarks & inappropriate behavior, will result in a permanent ban without warning.Do not encourage rule breaking by asking which specific title another person is looking for when they make a request.ĭon't harass others, spam, or submit low-quality posts. No, you may not ask for a specific pirated title (eg.No, you may not link to a specific pirated title ( eg.Yes, you can link to the top level domain of a site ( eg.No self-promotion of your own work is allowed unless you expressly receive permission from the moderators.ĭon't request or link to specific pirated titles.No trading or selling content, especially not for monetary services.No asking for content downloads, activation keys etc.No pleading for invites to scene sites, private torrent trackers, DDL forums or other sites with closed registrations.Any visual depiction of seeding / leeching ratio is acceptable, provided that it does not include specific titles.ĭon't request invites, trade, sell, or self-promote. Images that are too blurry or have a lot of unintelligible text will be deleted.
I added a WD Blue 500GB SSD drive to this PC and used Acronis WD Edition to clone to the new drive.įirst issue: Error message mentioned by OP that no WD drive was detected. I have a desktop PC with a WD Blue 1TB HDD drive that came with an Intel Optane cache. I’m not sure if this is the same problem as you or the original poster were having, but here is what I saw, which to me implies there is a conflict between Intel Optane and the Acronis WD Edition clone process: Once I did that, the clone worked out fine, although it seemed to take forever, like 3 hours. It didn’t work for me the first time because I didn’t read the instructions and I didn’t check the Advanced Settings (or something like that) and made sure that “Sector by sector clone” and “Optimize for SSD” boxes were checked. I finally got it working by using the free edition of EaseUS ToDo Backup. A check in Task Manager confirms that no Acronis process is running. The Acronis cloning procedure does not restart. When I do that (3 times so far) It just reboots the computer. The cloning screen starts up and then I get a “You Must Reboot Computer to continue” message. I can now get through the source and destination disk selection process in Acronis. The Acronis software appears to be loading. I have temporarily bypassed this problem by plugging in one of my other WD external USB hard drives. However, when I try to run the Acronis WD Edition software it says “Acronis True Image WD Edition Installation Restricted - This product edition requires at least one Western Digital drive to be installed in your system” The WD SSD Dashboard can see my USB-attached WD SSD Blue 500GB. While about 35% of users of Acronis True Image come from the United States, it is also popular in Germany and United Kingdom.I am trying to clone my existing 500GB laptop drive to a new WD SSD Blue 500GB using Acronis True Image WD Edition that was downloaded from the WD site. Relative to the overall usage of users who have this installed on their PCs, most are running Windows XP and Windows 7 (SP1). The setup package generally installs about 73 files and is usually about 20.67 MB (21,676,373 bytes). When installed, it will add a context menu handler to the Windows shell in order to provide quick access to the program. Delaying the start of this service is possible through the service manager. It adds a background controller service that is set to automatically run. Manually stopping the service has been seen to cause the program to stop functing properly. Upon being installed, the software adds a Windows Service which is designed to run continuously in the background. During setup, the program creates a startup registration point in Windows in order to automatically start when any user boots the PC. The most common release is, with over 21% of all installations currently using this version.
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The way I use it (fiction, nonfiction) is to compose my text in "chunks" as small as is workable. Even more now after this new MBP business.Ĭlick to expand.Depending on what "manage complexity" means to you, I'll suggest that Scrivener is very, very good at that. Is there any way to make the old version work on my new MBP? Tried re-installing my paid-for old version from the Apple store and though it downloaded, clicking the 'open' button does nothing.Īm i out another $40? I'm a starving artist here. I dont need anything fancier than the old version. He said my new Catalina MBP wont work with the old version. I paid a lot for something i cant actually hold onto, and i'm not terribly enthusiastic about doing it again. That 2013 iMac had Mojave, and the loaner had Sierra OS. Back when the accident happened, talking to the Scriv support guy, he said that when i get a new computer i'll have to buy the new Scrivener 3. 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